Mulch 101: Everything You Need To Know About Mulch

Nature’s system of keeping soil healthy is incredible. Broken twigs, dead leaves, and other plant matter fall to the ground to form an organic layer called mulch. This layer, filled with bacteria and microbiology, gradually decomposes to feed the soil below. As a gardener, this is the process we desire to imitate.

No matter if you’re using container gardening or have a full acre garden, mulch is one of the most useful techniques to use for a bountiful harvest and healthy soil.

As the ultimate drought buster for summer’s heat, mulch in your garden keeps the soil cool and reduces evaporation after watering.

The end result is a cool, weed-free, moisture-retaining soil. Usually, mulch is composed of any kind of bulk organic matter spread over the soil.

Sheet plastic can be used in place of mulch but it does leech chemicals into the soil and is not a sustainable or environmentally friendly product. It also does not add nutrients to the soil or add to the microbiology of the delicate ecosystem. On the plus side, it’s incredible for keeping the soil moist!

As you’ll see in this article, quality mulch is easy to come by, does wonders for the health of your soil, and is simple to use. You can also get it for free! You just have to know what to look for and where to look.

You Need Mulch Because…

If your soil is hard, compacted, or crusted over, you are in bad need of mulch. Mulch overall is a gardener’s best friend and here’s why!

• Holds soil temperature: mulch shades the ground and acts as an insulating barrier to keep the soil and plant roots cool

• Preserves moisture in the soil: mulch blocks direct sun exposure and reduces wind to prevent surface evaporation of water

• Smothers weeds: mulch blocks sunlight from reaching weed seeds in the soil (aka prevents weeds!)

• Encourages worms: mulch adds beneficial microbes and bacteria as it decomposes and attracts the tiny critters and bugs that build a healthy, living soil

• Adds nutrients directly to the soil: mulch adds nutrients even better than compost because it breaks down directly in the soil rather than in another location

• Reduces soil-bourne disease: mulch prevents soil backsplash onto plants when watering or with hard rains. It also keeps the plant leaves from direct contact with the soil where diseases can be found.

• Improves soil structure: when mulches are turned into the soil at the end of the season, the moisture and nutrient-retention qualities of the soil improve.

The Kind Of Mulch You Should Never Use

When you’re looking for mulch, most people tend to think of what they can buy at a greenhouse or hardware store.

Mulch is actually easily found on your own property, in your neighbourhood, or can be sourced strategically for next to no cost.

As a last resort, many suitable materials can be found at your local garden supply center but take away the paid for fancy packaging and you may feel a long way from imitating nature.

If you are planning on purchasing your mulch  here’s what to watch out for.

• Dyed: chemical dyes and preservatives are often added to cheal wood chip mulches. You do not want this around your plants, or even your trees. The chemicals are toxic and will kill the microbiology of the soil (thereby necessitating the need for synthetic fertilizers – see the pattern?). If the price of dyed wood mulch seems too good to be true, it usually is. Be wary as cheap chips can also be made with recycled pallets, pressure treated lumber, ceates, etc. All containing toxic chemicals you don’t want in your soil. All in all, if you’re going for wood chips, go completely natural. And you can source them free!

• Commercial naming: watch for commercial marketing: “all-natural” “green” “naturally dyed” although their use runs rampant more in the food and household product industries, you do see some companies start to use them. Ask questions, check ingredients. Just with the other industries, the names are just marketing and have no regulatory standards to meet.

• Toxic sprays: If you’re using natural materials such as straw or hay, make sure they haven’t been sprayed or near toxic waste such as herbicides and pesticides or industrial products

The Best Mulch Options and How to Use Them

There are many different kinds of mulch and honestly, most of them are free from your backyard. The benefit from locally sourcing your mulch is, you know what’s in it!

Here are some good mulching materials, their characteristics and how best to use them.

• Grass clippings – readily available in your own backyard, or that of a neighbour. The the longer in length, the better so they don’t decompose as quickly. Lay fresh clippings out for a day or two until they are no longer green (you may have to turn them). Fresh clippings will decompose too quickly, burn new plants, and become compact. Quick tip: country ditches are the best place to get grass clippings. Wait a couple days after the big tractors go by and then collect your free mulch!

• Wood chips – use as pathways or around trees. Do not use directly in the vegetable garden. You can contact local arborists or rent a chipper and chop some of your own straw branches. Help a friend, or contact hydro crews, municipal road crews, anyone that trims trees and bushes around wires will generally have a chipper and be chipping them. Most rural transit (landfill) stations also have wood chips available for you to take. Just be prepared to load it yourself!

• Pine needles: excellent mulch for strawberries as they make a nice flat layer and don’t move easily in the wind. Simply collect from below a pine tree and spread between your berries. They are a little acidic as they compost so check your PH levels. You may need to add some lime for a proper balance, or simply replenish with compost.

• Straw – bale straw is inexpensive and easy to transport. When mixed with manure, this makes an excellent mulch and compost combo- just be wary of using too much fresh manure as this heats up quickly and can burn plants. For free straw bales, put a callout in early spring to collect any bales people.used over winter on their septic field that they would otherwise be burning or bringing to the landfill.

• Hay – hay is easily obtained from farms or mowing pasture on your own property. Once wet, it does become unusable  hay becomes unusable for livestock once wet. Ask at feed stores or local farms.

• Shredded leaves: another mulch widely available. Leaves must be shredded or partially composted before using. Otherwise they can become mouldy and habour diseases. It’s best to mix leaves with another mulch to keep them light and airy, especially if left whole.

• Sawdust: although not readily available in your yard, Sawdust c an be found in lumberyards, sawmills, furniture manufacturers, etc. It looks great, and is easy to use. It does take nitrogen from the soil in order to compost, so plant lots of peas or add blood meal to your soil in the spring. Always a good healthy compost mid-season and in fall.

Tip: Sourcing Mulch For Free

All of these materials can be sourced for next to no cost, or no cost at all if you have the abundance you need nearby. If your backyard grass clippings of fallen leaves aren’t enough (or those of a neighbour), then contact local farms, companies or industries that use organic materials.

Heck, you could start a business specific in collecting what you need for mulch. Or a great business opportunity for a young entrepreneur. Any excess can be turned into a great living soil.

The Proper Way to Apply Mulch

Thin mulch will have little effect on weeds. A mulch that’s too heavy or compact will limit oxygen in the soil. Aim for 6-8” thick. Once its settled over time, this should be no more than 2-3” thick.

Apply mulch right away, no matter your season! Ok, maybe not in the dead of winter but you can certainly start planning for it!

Once seeds have sprouted and seedlings are about 4 inches high, spread your mulch between plants and rows.

Add fresh mulch as it breaks down throughout the season.

• Reapply as necessary throughout the season
• For walkways and around fruit trees and bushes, consider applying cardboard first and mulch on top to prevent weed growth in the long term
• If using a cardboard barrier, water the ground and cardboard thoroughly before applying mulch
• Cut your grass/weeds short before applying mulch in walkways
• Use what you have or what’s cheap or free
• Apply it after plants have sprouted and soil is warm
• Use it to provide a germination dressing for seeds like carrots, spinach and lettuce (remove after germination and border rows)
• Do not apply around the trunk or stem of a plant, by 1”.
• Use mulch in walkways
• Apply 2” deep in garden and 6” in walkways. Apply 6-12″ deep around fruit trees and bushes
• Water thoroughly before applying mulch to trap in moisture

Some mulches you can rake up at the end of the year and use again the flowing year. I have found ditch mulch to last 3+ years.

Organic mulches you can work into the soil at the end of the season and they will decompose, adding nutrients to your soil.

By adding mulch to your garden you’re guaranteed to have a better year than previous ones. Your soil will be healthy, your plants, happier, and your time and money will be well spent!

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